![]() This led to some jumps in exposure, but I’ll take it. I had some 900-picture time-lapses to make, which meant I had to make three separate time-lapses and put them together in Premiere. But it was a sufficient extent! The most limiting factor about LRTimelapse for an amateur like myself is that you can only make time-lapses with 400 pictures. Thankfully, LRTimelapse is free… to a certain extent. I learned the art of holy-grail time-lapsing using Lightroom and LRTimelapse. See all the time-lapses I made right here below! We switched apartments since then and, though it’s an upgrade, we don’t have quite the view. I had a blast sitting on the balcony reading and making time-lapses. Also, it’s best to pause your intervalometer every time you adjust your exposure, but don’t take too long because you want to maintain the time-lapse’s continuity. Once you get to that point, start changing your ISO. Some key points: adjust your exposure through shutter speed until the shutter speed is half your time-lapse interval (so, if you’re taking pictures every 6 seconds, don’t set your shutter speed over 3 seconds). All in all, it’s pretty simple and straightforward. Finally, I let it fall to -1 and 1/3 and from then on adjusted to -1 until I was done with the time-lapse.Īfter day 3, that was pretty much it, so I continued to play around with techniques and settings. Then I let it fall to -1 and adjusted it to -2/3 four or five times. To do this gradually, once the sun set, I left the exposure meter until it read -2/3 and then adjusted it to -1/3 four or five times. This is a little hard to explain, but I’ll do my best.Īs it gets dark, you need to end up adjusting your exposure to -1, not 0. ![]() See, once the sun dips under the horizon, the idea is for the time-lapse to show that it indeed has gotten darker (time passing) without letting it get so dark that you can’t see the beautiful details of the blue hour and night. On the third day, I again adjusted every -1/3, but added a little something. This meant smaller jumps in light between sets of pictures than the first day and is better for when the time comes to edit the pictures into a time-lapse. The second day, I set everything up and decided to be more precise, so every time it got darker and my exposure meter read -1/3, I adjusted it back to 0. That’s when I switched back to 0 and repeated the process for as long as I wished. Then, I kept watch for when the light began to change.Īs the sun set, it got darker and my exposure meter read -1/3, then -2/3 and finally 1. First, I set up my camera and balanced my image by setting the exposure meter to ‘0.’ With coffee in hand and a book to read, I clicked the intervalometer to begin my time-lapse at an interval of 6 seconds. I’ll share my learning process to get the hang of this with you – I made sunset time-lapses because 6 a.m. To sum it up, you need to set the exposure as you want it, which will usually be ‘0’ on your exposure meter, and then switch back to 0 as it gets darker or lighter on your exposure meter. (There may be other ways, but this is how I learned.) Though creating an awesome time-lapse does mostly come down to using LRTimelapse, there is a best way to shoot time-lapses for them to come out as smooth as possible. Amateur Takes on Sunset Time-lapses The Shooting So I read up on the subject and, as it turns out, there is some technical work to be done while taking the time-lapse pictures, but what it really comes down to is the software you use to edit time-lapses. ![]() It would either get dark way too quickly when there were still colors and clouds I wanted to capture (I wouldn’t change any settings for the time-lapse), or the time-lapse would flicker as the light changed (I would let my camera automatically expose for every shot or expose manually for every shot). Usually, if I made a time-lapse during a sunset, also known as a holy grail time-lapse, one of two things would happen. I’ve always loved time-lapses, but I’ve put off learning how to make one in changing light for the longest time. ![]()
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